Low-Profile Packout Handle Labels

Low Profile Packout Handle Labels

Description

These Packout low-profile organizer labels are inspired buy Dan Winciker’s Milwaukee Low Profile Packout Bit Set Label thing on Thingiverse. I have re-modeled the labels in openSCAD so that you can customize the text on the label and change how tightly it snaps onto the handle.

There are two types of labels: one for the full-width low-profile organizer and one for the half-width one. I have provided several sample labels below for each organizer and the customizable model so that you can create your own labels.

Please take note of the print settings and instructions below when you are printing and customizing the labels.

Files

Printer: Prusa i3 MK3
Slicer: PrusaSlicer
Material: Inland PET-G
Resolution: 0.3 mm with a 0.4mm nozzle
Wall Lines/Perimeters: 3
Infill: Minimum 10% Gyroid. The higher infill percentage the stronger the part.
Notes: You need supports! Also in PrusaSlicer “Don’t Support Bridges” must be turned off otherwise the label will sag in the middle and not fit flush to the handle.

Instructions

Because these labels are meant to be printed in two colors, this necessitates a filament change in the middle of the print. This means that the labels have to be printed facing up with supports underneath. This will add about 50% to the print time and the problem of removing the supports.

Low Profile Packout Handle Label Clip

Once the supports are removed you can install the label by hooking it on one side of the handle and then snapping the other side in. I designed the label to be tight on the handle so you might have to slide your thumb along the label as you are pushing to stretch the hooks. Removing the labels can be difficult, but I think of that as a feature, not a bug.

If you want to create your own label or aren’t satisficed with the fit, download the model and extract it. I have a guide on how to customize openSCAD models if you have never done so. Run the model from the extracted folder because it needs both the .scad file and the .json file to work properly.

Using the Packout handle label openSCAD model

To choose which label (half or full width), there is a drop down box on the top of the customizer block. Then it’s as simple as changing the text in the text box, rendering the model, and saving it as an STL file.

10 comments

  1. Hi Im having a problem getting the stl file for the low profile handle label. Any help would be appreciated

  2. First off Thank you for all the work you do to bring these 3D parts to the public. I’m super new to 3D printing (I’m a General Contractor) and these would be WONDERFUL for all my Packout stuff. I have been able to print Bins and such but this one is giving me trouble. I can go into the SCAD file and modify it for what I want it to print. I conceptually understand Supports but cannot get them to ‘look right’ in CURA. Either too small or they “Blast’ through the piece. Are they suppose to look like ‘Bridge Piers’? Would it be possible to get an .STL file that has the supports in it so I can see what they should look like. Does it say exactly where in the G Code that the Filament change takes place?

    Thank you Soooo much for you time and Patience

    Ray

    1. I’m going to directly contact you so I can send you some screen grabs of the supports in Cura, but I’ll address the color change here.

      I’m not sure which printer you are using, but if it is one that is supported by PrusaSlicer, I would highly recommend switching to that for color changes, because switching filament is much more user friendly. Filament changes in Cura either require using a script, or editing the gcode directly to add an M600 command (or whatever command your printer uses) right before the layer where you want the color switch. In PrusaSlicer, you just move the slider to the layer and press the “+” symbol next to the arrow.

      In Cura you’ll want to figure out which layer you want to change colors, move the slider to that layer, note which layer it is, and subtract 1 (layers in gcode start at 0 for some reason). Then you open up the gcode file and do a search for that layer, “LAYER:10” for instance and insert a M600 command (or which ever code your printer uses) right before that.

      1. Thank you for your fast reply. I had my 1st 3D Printer for 10 days now, so please excuse the lack of knowledge. I figured out the M600 for myself by Googling, but when I found the Layer and plugged it in and examined the G-Code everything looked fine. I think my problem is I have Marlin 1.0.1 which doesn’t support M600. I then started researching how to ‘Flash’ the Ender 5 Pro that I have and it looks Very Complicated. But I bought a ‘Arduino’ and cables to ‘maybe’ be able to figure that out. I will send you an EMail with more info and the screen shots before Lunch.

        Thanks Again

        Ray

        1. The M600 command isn’t the only way to do it. You can do it manually. This is how I had to do it before I got my Prusa.

          You slice the file normally like you do for a single color and note the print time. You start printing then come back two or three minutes before the print is over and manually pause the print when it starts printing the text, don’t worry if it starts printing some in the base color because there are several layers of text.

          You then raise the print head a nice round number, let’s say 10 cm and move it over 10 cm so you don’t ruin the print with strings of hot filament, just make sure you pick a number in bounds or you’ll lose the position. Swap out the filament and then move the print head back where it started (thus the simple to remember numbers) and unpause the print.

          If you are good with gcode you can just insert pause and move commands in place of the M600, the early versions of Marlin might have a pause command even if they don’t have M600.

  3. Hi Benjamen,
    I wonder if this Label could be printed face down like Stak Labels posted in your website as well,

    I have Ender 3 printer,
    I did a test printing face up and changing the color manually….all fits perfect the problem is the withe color of the text can be removed easily.

    I maybe Im doing something wrong.

    I appreciate any comments and regards

    Ivan Galvan

    1. In order to print it upside down you need the a file for the label with the negative text, the file for the positive text, and a way to align them. This could be done with a little modification to the code, it’s on my list, but it probably won’t be anytime soon.

      The text coming off easily is a little concerning, I’ve never actually has this issue on any printer I’ve used. I would ask if you print the label in all one color does the text come off easily? If not, what is happening when you change filament colors?

      I’m not really familiar with the Ender printers, so I don’t know what the filament change process is like, but some general areas that could be failing are: the nozzle isn’t going to the exact height it left off, the print is cooling too much in the time you are changing filament, or there is something wrong with the filament itself (like it is too wet, or isn’t the same plastic as the base).

  4. When I download the file I do not get the two different labels in the customizer. I only get “design default values.”

    1. You need to download the ZIP file. Then you need to extract the entire thing and click on the .scad file in the same folder as the .json file. The .json file has to be in the same directory as the .scad file.

      It will not work if you do not extract the folder and then navigate in the ZIP file and try to click on the .scad file.

      I just downloaded the ZIP above, extracted the entire folder, and clicked on the SCAD file — and the “Compact Low_Profile” and “Low-Profile” options are definitely there.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *